7/14 Germany and Austria – Blind Tasting Buddies

Wine Tasting, July 14th, 2023, Seattle

Wines:

Sparkling

2015 Dönnhoff Deutscher Sekt Pinot Brut Nahe, DE

White

2018 Schieferkopf (Chapoutier) Deutscher Qualitätswein Silvaner Trocken Sec Franken, DE
2013 Hiedler Kremstal Grüner Veltliner Maximum Niederösterreich, AT
2005 Nikolaihof Wachau Riesling Jungfernlese Steiner Hund Niederösterreich, AT
2001 Maison Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile Vendanges Tardives Alsace, FR
2010 Domaine Zind Humbrecht Rangen de Thann Grand Cru Pinot Gris Clos Saint Urbain Alsace, FR
2021 Division / The Orcas Project Müller-Thurgau / Gewürztraminer Willamette Valley, OR
2020 J. Moreau Saint-Bris L’Aubaine Burgundy, FR

Red

2006 HS Kloster Eberbach Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder Auslese Trocken Rheingau, DE
2019 Weingut Beurer Württemberg Portugieser Alte Reben Württemberg, DE

Dessert

2018 Weingut Keller Monsheimer Silberberg Rieslaner Beerenauslese Goldkapsel Rheinhessen

An exercise in deductive tasting, all levels are welcome. Each session we present a theme, and focus our tasting and theory work accordingly. Event led by Master Sommelier Nick Davis.

Widely noted for their white wines, the nations of Germany and Austria certainly produce glorious bottles of Riesling, and many other styles as well! In this session, we will check out the other grapes of both countries, including but not limited to Grüner Veltliner, Spätburgunder, Blaufränkisch, and more.

Topics discussed:

The one way to group the 13 wine regions (Anbaugebiete) of Germany is in three areas, across the western, south, and eastern part of the country.

West contains the famous Riesling areas of the Mosel, Nahe, Rheingau, and others.
South includes the warmer Baden region, plus Franken which is famous for Silvaner.
The East has the smaller Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut areas.
- West contains the famous Riesling areas of the Mosel, Nahe, Rheingau, and others.
- South includes the warmer Baden region, plus Franken which is famous for Silvaner.
- The East has the smaller Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut areas.

Some of Germany’s important grape varieties:

White
- Riesling (Mosel, Nahe, Rheingau)
- Elbling (Mosel)
- Silvaner (Franken)
- Sauvignon Blanc (Pfalz)
- Chardonnay (Pfalz)
- Müller-Thurgau (Baden)
- Scheurebe (Pfalz)
- Rieslaner (Pfalz and Rheinhessen)
- Weißburgunder aka Pinot Blanc (Pfalz)
- Grauburgunder aka Ruländer aka Pinot Gris (Baden)
- Gewürztraminer (Pfalz)
- Silvaner (Franken)
Red
- Spätburgunder (Baden, Pfalz, Rheingau)
- Frühburgunder (Ahr)
- Dornfelder (Rheinhessen and Pfalz)
- Blauer Portugieser (Rheinhessen, Württemberg)
- Lemberger aka Blaufränkisch (Württemberg, Rheinhessen, Pfalz)

During the 20th Century, grape scientists had fun with creating grape crosses and hybrids, and Germany was an epicenter for this type of work. Here are some examples of well-known crosses (x) and hybrids (h):

Müller-Thurgau (Riesling x Madeleine Royale)
Diana (Silvaner x Müller-Thurgau)
Regent (Diana h Chambourcin)
Scheurebe (Riesling x Bukettrebe)
Bukettrebe (Silvaner x Schiava Grossa)
Rieslaner (Riesling x Silvaner)

In a similar approach, Austria’s wine regions can also be grouped into three sections.

Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) is found in the northeast, and is lower in elevation compared to the western part of the country. Also in relation to the Danube, the area is further down-river. The best Grüner Veltliner and Riesling examples from Austria come from here.
Burgenland borders Lake Neusiedl, and has excellent conditions for both red wines, and luscious dessert wines affected by Botrytis.
Steiermark to the south has excellent Sauvignon Blanc, as well as a unique rosé style called Schilcher.